And why may I ask, the reason for this procedure?

 

Yeah. Its got me curious as well. Why are we unplugging that connector?

 

And why may I ask, the reason for this procedure?

That connector carries the power-lock & unlock wires and I had an after-market device wired to it that is behaving erratically so I'm suspecting a faulty connection. In fact, you can see just to the right of the connectors some electrical tape covering the connections that I want to examine. But it's so cramped, I cannot even get my fingers in there to unwrap the electrical tape! Since I probably have to resolder it anyway, I was thinking that unplugging the connector would make it easier to unwrap, solder, and rewrap the connection.

 

It occurred to me to stop by the Honda dealer and buy the connector just so I could find and study the lock. Alas, they only sell this connector as part of a harness and they don't stock them. (And it's $72!!)

Am I going about this the wrong way?

 

Maybe you can post more info about what the device is doing that is "erratic". I assume it is a remote starter or aftermarket alarm system?

I'm no auto expert but I do work in I.T and I always try to rule out the simpler things that may be wrong before I move on to the more drastic/expensive areas. What has led you to believe this connection is the problem?

 

Coy just does not work around here. Spill all beans.

 

Coy just does not work around here. Spill all beans.

LOL.

 

Coy just does not work around here. Spill all beans.

If it will help inspire an answer, I'm happy to provide more detail.

It's an exterior keypad. Sometimes it works (unlocks), sometimes it doesn't. But it always disarms the alarm, so I know the keypad itself is working reliably - because the same keypad output feeds both circuits (both the disarm and unlock circuits, that is).

As a doublecheck, I've swapped the keypad with an identical unit with the same erratic results.

This is why I'm focusing my attention on the connection to the unlock circuit under the dash.

 

Perhaps the device is the culprit here or a incompatibility exists?

Tough case to call...good luck!

 

Why would you make your Ody look like a 78 Chrysler La Barron? (Ok just kidding) But I think keyfobs made these obsolete.

 

It's always a challenge to see if you can program in the right code at random???

At least that is what parking attendants claim...

 

Looking at the photo you posted above with the door keypad are you wearing sandals with white socks!!!!!!


Shame on you.....

 

Went with the pinstripes too.
I wonder if there is one of those rugs on the dash?

 

Howza bout' "dingo balls" draped around the windows?

:duh:

 

In a feeble attempt to rescue this thread (and my reputation, such as it is) from your ridicule, here is an actual technical followup...

In the end, I gave up trying to disconnect that connector. Instead, I crept in far enough to remove the electrical tape and resolder it in place. However, it didn't fix things so ...

I'm now convinced that it's a limitation of the Ody computer. I cannot trigger the disarm and unlock simultaneously. The computer simply doesn't listen to both at the same time. If I knew how to speak to the B-CAN bus, I could do it that way but that's undocumented (as far as I can tell).

I'm thinking of three workarounds (I've tested the first two):

1) Use the keypad's auxiliary controls. These are meant to trigger other things like opening the hatch or sliding doors with another button once the initial code has been entered. I actually tested this and it works. The time it takes me to move my finger to another button (tenth of a second?) is sufficient for the computer to start listening again and unlock the doors.

2) Put the unlock circuit on a relay, thinking the natural latency in the relay might be enough time. But it wasn't. (Is there such a thing as a relay with a tunable delay?)

3) Connect directly to the unlock solenoid in the driver's door. I'm not sure it's wise to bypass the computer so I haven't tested that and am not sure I really want to as it only opens the one door. (My 1st workaround talks to the computer so it follows the computer's current setting which is to unlock all the doors.)