first possibility I would check is whether the cooling fan is coming on. It is electronically controlled, so you can check by idling, waiting for engine to achieve the threshold temperature (190 or 200F), and seeing if the fan comes on. If it does not and the temp gauge rises above normal operating, then it's an easy fix, usually a sensor or relay

If the fan is coming on, get it to a dealer or mechanic ASAP

Also, how is your coolant level?

 

Fan does come on, cuz i hear it when idling after coming to a stop. Can it be thermostat?

 

Make sure BOTH fans are coming on (you have to look, not just hear). Also, were you running the A/C (or defrost, heat/defrost as these will activate the A/C). I had a Maxima once where only one fan was coming on..it was fine until I ran the A/C...without the second fan, the added heat would overheat the cooling system.

If the fans are coming on, I would guess stuck thermostat or bad water pump. Thermostat is cheap and easy, so I'd try that first. You can do a quick check by feeling the upper rad hose - it should be hot when the veh is at operating temp. If it's not, the thermostat is usually stuck closed.

 

Both fans do come on. I will have to check the hose temp.

 

OH and other weird thing i have noticed is, when i turn on the van, let it heat up to normal operating temp b4 i put my kid in there and turn on heater, it doesnt shoot hot air untill i start moving. It shoots cold air when i have just turned on the car and in park even with the temp guage upto like 25% from cold.

 

Have you checked the coolant level? Sounds like maybe it's low and thus no heat because low coolant in the heater core. When you start moving the water pump speeds up and moves coolant into the heater core.

Here's what I'd do. Check coolant level - if OK, check/replace thermostat - if still problems start looking at water pump.

BTW, if your coolant is low, you have some other problem. Coolant isn't usually consumed by a vehicle.

 

Also try replacing the radiator cap. If it will not hold pressure, coolant will dump into, and overflow, the recovery tank. Once stopped there is not enough coolant to get sucked back in. It's also possible that the radiator is plugged up. Also it's possible that the previous owner had the coolant changed and whomever did it did not do the recommended procedure to fully purge the system of air. In an Ody you have to operate both the front and the rear heater full blast to get all the air out of the system. Many mechanics do not want to take the time to this. Many do not know to turn on the rear.

 

I will have to check the level of my coolant. Not sure if its low. If there is air in coolant, any way i can purge it w/o doing the whole flush thing?

 

If checking hot, look in the overflow bottle. If low add coolant ONLY to the overflow bottle.

Best bet is to check when cold. Remove rad cap - if low top up radiator first. Replace cap. Top up overflow bottle.

Run vehicle. If there is air in the system, it will (or should) bleed out through the overflow bottle as engine runs at operating temperature. Make sure you run the rear heat as well to purge air from the rear heater core.

If there is air in the system and it bleeds out, your system will be low again when the engine cools and the coolant contracts sucking coolant from the overflow bottle back into the rad. Just be sure to keep checking till the level stops dropping.

Of course, like I said, if you're low on coolant, there must be a reason unless the previous owner did a flush and didn't refill properly. You MUST run both the front and rear heater at full hot to get the air out when refilling.

 

It's almost like egads and I are reading each other's minds.

 

I will try the cold method, top off radiator and reservoir when i get home and then drive around with both front and rear air on. I will have to let the van cool down to check if the coolant level went down, correct?

If checking hot, look in the overflow bottle. If low add coolant ONLY to the overflow bottle.

Best bet is to check when cold. Remove rad cap - if low top up radiator first. Replace cap. Top up overflow bottle.

Run vehicle. If there is air in the system, it will (or should) bleed out through the overflow bottle as engine runs at operating temperature. Make sure you run the rear heat as well to purge air from the rear heater core.

If there is air in the system and it bleeds out, your system will be low again when the engine cools and the coolant contracts sucking coolant from the overflow bottle back into the rad. Just be sure to keep checking till the level stops dropping.

Of course, like I said, if you're low on coolant, there must be a reason unless the previous owner did a flush and didn't refill properly. You MUST run both the front and rear heater at full hot to get the air out when refilling.

 

Yup. As it cools down it will draw coolant from the overflow bottle back into the rad. So, if it is low, fill the rad to the top of the rad neck, then fill the overflow bottle to the a line that you can easily check to see if the level dropped. I don't know if that generation of Ody had a 'cold' and a 'hot' line, but if it does, fill to the cold line.

 

Thanks rcy for helping out. You think this can also be the reason why it shoots out cold air even with temp upto 20-25% warm when idling?

 

Never open a radiator cap when a vehicle is hot (or even warm) There was a discussion of this just the other day:

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=36089

I'm not sure it's necessary to lift the front of the van as outlined there. Although just the slope of a suburban driveway would probably be enough. Of coure you are in NYC so suburban driveways are not exactly around.

 

drive around with both front and rear air on

You only need to turn the front control to full heat. The rear control is only for blower speed and direction (roof = cold, floor = heat). Turning the front control to full heat will send full coolant flow to the rear heat exchanger and so purge any air in the lines going to the rear heater.

 

So you guys were rigth and I thank you for the help. I went home and noticed there was no coolant in the reservior, opened the cap of radiator and again no coolant. So I topped off radiator and reservior to max level, drove around for 1-2 miles with heat on full blast, came bak let the car cool and checked again. Reservior was still the same but in radiator, i needed to add some. Now i need to check if there is a leak.

 

And now that you've done that, something else just popped into my head. Assuming you have no leaks (externally you will notice, but if you have an internal leak (like a bad intake gasket or head gasket) you will notice the level dropping, but won't see coolant anywhere outside or on the driveway - at this point you will need a used oil analysis to confirm coolant in your oil), then we can assume that maybe the previous owner had the fluid changed and it was done wrong. In that case, I would be leary of what kind of coolant they put in. You will get all sorts of info on what you CAN put in (G05, Dexcool, phosphate, silicate free etc), but to be safe I would use the Honda recommended coolant (which is blue in colour by the way).

 

The coolant i filled up yes'day was Greeen in color and is made by Peak. Is it bad? Would i have to get it flushed?

 

Not sure..I know PEAK makes a G05 coolant which is supposed to be universal. They might also make a traditional style coolant (like the original Prestone that your Dad used to put in his car) but that type has a lot of silicates and the Japanese manufacturers frown on the use of silicates, saying it will ruin water pump seals. What exactly did it say on the jug?

 

It said it was universal. I didtn add water to it, just poured in coolant itself. Here is the link to the one i used. http://www.peakantifreeze.com/peakanti.html

 

Leave what's there until you determine if the previous job was botched or if you have a leak. It won't hurt for a short time. Once you get the fluid level in the reservoir stabilized, watch it for a while. Or you can speed up the investigation by taking it to a shop for a pressure test. If it tests okay, drain and refill with the Honda coolant.

 

It said it was universal. I didtn add water to it, just poured in coolant itself. Here is the link to the one i used. http://www.peakantifreeze.com/peakanti.html

Were the instructions on the container in english. It pays to read.

 

Must be mixed with watter

Right from the FAQ section... on the web site...

A. Why is it important to mix antifreeze with water?
Antifreeze contains chemicals that protect your engine against rust and corrosion, as well as freeze-up and boil over protection. Water is required to activate the chemicals in the inhibitor package. Furthermore, adding water to antifreeze actually increases the freeze-up and boil over protection provided. For example, a mix of 40% antifreeze and 60% water provides freeze-up protection down to -10°F and boil over protection up to 259°F. In comparison, a mix of 70% antifreeze and 30% water provides freeze-up protection down to -62°F and boil over protection up to 270°F. However, we do not recommend adding more than 70% antifreeze. This would limit the corrosion and freeze up protection and heat transfer capabilities of the antifreeze.

 

I doubt you've exceeded 70/30 anyway, unless you had to add the whole jug...?

I'd follow davedrivesody's advice.

 

Speaking of reading the directions, the previous owner didn't as the Ody has long life coolant that lasts to 120k or ten years. so some yahoo or even the owner himself decided to "do something" and changed the fluid. dumped out the expensive Honda stuff and put in some whatever stuff. Then probably failed to follow the proper procedures to make sure all the air was out of the system. by the way, the Honda fluid comes premixed with distilled water. Hondas are fine machines and everybody treats them like they an old Chevy.